Blog
/Gear//
Trackstars with attitude
— 22/01/10 Comments - 0
It took a long time for the rest of the world to cotton on - or maybe that should be 'not cotton on' - to stretch woven trousers, and for many years Mammut cornered the market in super tough mountain pants made from shoeller fabrics; a market that at the…
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/Technique //
Aiding across roofs
— 20/01/10 Comments - 0
Hi Andy just wondering whether you would consider writing a short piece for your website about the technique for aid climbing on a roof or big overhang. We managed to completely fail up at Thor's Cave yesterday (although admittedly the hangovers, ice, mud and fog may have had something to do with…
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/Climbing//
The School: No4 Buttress, Coire An Lochain
— 15/01/10 Comments - 0
Lochain is a honey pot for aspiring Scottish mixed climbers, and although detractors will point out that it’s nothing but a road side crag, and tame in comparison to many other full value venues, as a testing ground or lab for mixed climbing there is probably nowhere better. In my mind, if Coire…
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/Expression//
Dieter Rams: ideas on good design
— 14/01/10 Comments - 0
If you're looking at buying some new gear this winter, or have some design ideas, or even looking for a way to approach life itself, then here are a few tenets for industrial designer Dieter Rams.
Good design…
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/Expression//
The process - exploiting the disabled for personal glory
— 13/01/10 Comments - 0
I've had this blog hanging around on my computer for a week or so, not sure if I should post it, thinking I may come over as being an offensive wanker, and that I should maybe just stick to writing about gear. But then I read Stevie Haston's blog and…
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/Gear//
Hagan Nanook appraoch skis
— 11/01/10 Comments - 0
I can remember about ten years ago, when Salamon Snowblades first appeared on the market, telling the UK rep Pete Rostron how great they would be for climbers, if only they had a simple heal lift binding. Every time I saw him I'd tell him the same…
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/Gear//
Designing stupid
— 10/01/10 Comments - 0
Many moons ago I was working in a climbing shop. One day a certain - rather rotund - hardware manufacturer's sales rep came in with an idea he wanted to run past us. He explained how the company had been looking into designing a new alpine/winter harness, which was proving taxing, as everyone seemed…
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/Expression//
giving up the drink
— 07/01/10 Comments - 0
What do you think is the best hydrating system for winter climbing? Carrying some water in a camelback, or relying only on the snow and the melting of it on a stove? And how much water do you have to carry, if you need to carry and also you want to go light?
Thank you.
I'm…
/Gear//
Broken Axes
— 05/01/10 Comments - 1
A friend of mine recently had a very nasty accident when his Petzl Quark snapped. He was in the process of doing a can opener move, resulting in him spiking himself in the face, breaking his jaw and generally coming off very badly indeed (he’s Scottish and a hardcore winter climber, so his biggest…
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/Technique //
Gut instinct - 5 ideas on how to avoid an avalanche
— 02/01/10 Comments - 0
Over the last few years I’ve got more and more into sea kayaking, both because my partner refuses to walk, and because it’s the nearest thing to having a full on expedition in your back garden (1 hour in a sea kayak is equivalent to 1 day on an expedition).
/Gear//
Never had it so good - Ice screws
— 30/12/09 Comments - 0
"Andrew, Do you sharpen your own ice screws? Being a carpenter gives me good skills for using a file and I always keep my ice tools and crampons sharp. I have been using a very small file to tune up my ice screws, but notice that my new BD Express screws go in so much better than the filed ones."
/Expression//
An 11 year old’s guide to avalanches: demonstrated via a Factory Records sleeve
— 27/12/09 Comments - 0
Over xmas my daughter Ella asked me what caused an avalanche, probably because she was worrying that there may be one on her street (it is quite a steep Sheffield street, but all the cars, wheelie bins and dog turds mean it's pretty safe from avalanches really). It's a great question for an 11 year to…
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/Gear//
The King of Adzes
— 24/12/09 Comments - 0
Hello Andy.
I have a question about attachments to make extra large adzes on technical ice axes. I have seen these things that look like a small deadman attached to (often Black Diamond) ice axes, and used by folk like Fowler, Garriboti & Colin Haley.
I'm living in Peru…
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