Blog
/Gear//
what to wear under a speed ascent
— 18/12/09 Comments - 0
Hi Andy.
Just a quick question for you about the Speed Ascent. When you tested it in Scotland what did you layer it with and what was the weather like.Just trying to compare it with ME…
/Technique //
Tip Number 3: it’s all in the feet
— 17/12/09 Comments - 0
When to see Powell and Pressburger's magnificent The Red Shoes the other night, a film that would convert even the most jaded of culture trolls into a ballet lover (and I’m not talking old school Boreal rock boots). If it comes to a cinema…
>Read full story
/Technique //
Tip Number 2: A Tap for Luck
— 17/12/09 Comments - 0
So we’ve covered testing a tool in tip one, but how about a step beyond just testing? Again, imagine you’ve got to make a move off a stance, perhaps a very big move, and you only have one pick hooked into a patch of dirt, or in a patch of soft neve. Maybe your last runners a long way below you and…
>Read full story
/Technique //
Comment from Stephen Koch
— 16/12/09 Comments - 0
Great comment from Stephen Koch on testing placements:
You are on to something with this but I would add one important item. When testing a placement, I suggest doing so with a straight arm and from the knees so to speak. Once you want to test the…
/Technique //
Pushing the Limits - A series of tips to improve your winter grade
— 15/12/09 Comments - 0
It’s that time of year again were you’re glued to the climbing forecasts, digesting winter battle reports from UKC users, and juggling work and families for that amazing winter weekend you’ve been dreaming of since the last one.
Most climbers will want to push their grade this winter,…
/Expression//
Open letter to Stevie Haston
— 14/12/09 Comments - 0
Dear Stevie
Had a great idea this morning. I think you should get in touch with Ken Russell (film making version of Ken Wilson... but who looks like Ian Smith) and talk about doing a film of your life.
Think it would be be amazing, like The Devils meets Women in Love (you…
///
The Horror
— 13/12/09 Comments - 0
/Gear//
The $650 Rucksack
— 12/12/09 Comments - 0
Been talking to Cilogear in the US about bringing their packs into Europe over the last few months, as I think they're by far the most cutting edge climbing pack brand out there. Being small and 'Pod' like (well old Pod, when it was just Pete ODonovan making sacks)…
>Read full story
/Technique //
Diasy Chain question
— 11/12/09 Comments - 0
Hey Andy,
I was reading through your article on basic big wall gear. You said that you should larks head your daisy chains around your belay loop and not through your waist and leg loops. I was curious as to why? I've always gone through the waist and leg loops because I figured that you tie…
/Gear//
Summer Alpine Bags: How light is too light?
— 10/12/09 Comments - 0
Hi Andy
Just wanted to quickly pick your brains on sleeping bags. At the minute I have two sleeping bags, one is a light weight RAB quantum 250 and my other is a RAB summit 900. I tend to sleep quite warm so for summer alpine routes I've got a couple of options one is that i use my quantum…
/Review//
Outdoor Research Alpine Alibi mini review
— 09/12/09 Comments - 0
Coming home from the swimming baths with the kids the other morning, I spied a suspicious plastic bag propped up against my front door. At first I thought it may have contained a present from my alarmingly large group of male groupies/stalkers (not sure any are gay, as they are generally dobbed in by…
>Read full story
/Gear//
Ultimate Gnarl Bag
— 08/12/09 Comments - 0
Hi Andy, I thought I'd at least send you an email since I just noticed your comments about ripping up a sleeping bag to make one for alpine awesomeness.
I'm in the same boat but further a stern, looking at light bags for summer alpine and rock but wanting to do away with the bivy if I…
/Expression//
Further Education
— 06/12/09 Comments - 0
Waiting for the weather to get cold again, I’ve spent the last two days finishing images and diagrams for the upcoming peg book; clicking away in Adobe Photoshop and Illustrator, along with Indesign, not to mention fiddling with the book’s web page (requiring a DaVinci Code’esk dabbling into html,…
>Read full story
/Gear//
The shit hits… Steve House responds
— 04/12/09 Comments - 0
Was stoked (bloody hell I'm going all American today!) to get some comments from Uber alpinist Steve House* (and fellow BT winner) tonight about my comments on the Speed Ascent while sat in the Cinema watching the new Twilight film (bloody hell that girl sure know's how to pick a boyfriend - first a…
>Read full story
.tif__thumb.jpg)
