Andy Kirkpatrick_ On Denali

September 11, 2010 10:46 PM

Hi Andy,

Scott

Hi Scott

I’ve climbed in Alaska but not Denali. 

Here’s a list of very random thoughts….

I guess you know all the beta on Denali, but one good source is Alaska Climbing by Supertopo.

Don’t be put off by horror stories, as Denali is full of idiots, wannabes and Walter Mittys - as well as proper climbers.  Bad stuff happens to people who don’t know any better, as well as thoes who should.  Read up on what nails people and keep it in mind.

If you’re doing the West Buttress then it’s basically a walk (I know a few people who’ve climbed it who would struggle on a VD or grade II winter route), so ‘climbing’ isn’t a big issue.  What is is survival, due to the route’s length, height and position. 

To climb Denali you need to give the mountain some serious respect, and treat it as if you were climbing in Antarctica - or Mars.  There’ll be lots of people around, including rangers and helicopters, but when the shit hits you’ll probably be on your own.  You also need to respect your body, not pushing it too hard until it’s ready, prepared to stop when things aren’t right, and turn around when you know you should.  A lot of people get fucked up because they don’t do this (there is no place for machismo in mountaineering).

The main dangers will be cravase falls, HAPE/HACE, other teams, the cold and fatigue.  Each of these is avoidable with care, training and good teamwork.

The core for your survival and success on Denali will be your team, not to mention your sanity.  You need to train together and work through every part of the climb that you can before you go.  For example go through every scenario for cravase falls (middle man down a hole for example).  Don’t forget to do cravase rescue with fully laden pulks (you’ll notice everything falls out to begin with!) and heavy packs.  Try doing it with mitts on (taking them off may well lead to frostbite), and at night without headtoches!!!  Basically get your technique nailed and you can guarantee you won’t need it. 

Learn to get on in tough times, as understanding how your mates operate when knackered will help when you’re all utterly knakered.  People change when they are scared or strung out, or their blood sugar is low.  You need to learn the art of man love, selflessness and a more feminine way of thinking (no that doesn’t mean shagging each other).  Get out pre trip and do long and stupid stuff together. Run a marathon as a team.  Do the Bob Graham over a weekend this winter.  Cycle the coast to coast in 24 hours.  The name of the game is stress testing, stressing your team, your kit, your strategy and yourself.

Get your shit together.  Does your tent have big pull tabs on it (in fact does everything have big pull tabs on it!).  Have you tried out your wooden stove base (have you got a stove base!?).  Hows your face protection?  Are your mitts unlooseable? Can you all put the tent up fast - in the dark - and with mitts on?  What if it’s boiling hot on the mountain - have you got that covered?

Don’t get tricked into being a heavyweight on Denali.  Keep it light and practical.

Use bamboo poles to anchor your tent, and tape reflective tape tabs on top so you can spot it in the dark.

Practice digging snow holes, snow pits and emergency shelters.

Got new crampons for the trip?  Test them out by putting them on and off with… you guessed it - mitts! 

Last tip is promise me that you won’t trip on the way down; take it slow, watch your crampon straps and keep and eye on your rope mates.  Don’t be afraid to belay down the steep stuff, or ask for one, or face in, and kick nice big solid steps. 

Bottom line is always keep something back for coming back.

Have a great trip.

Andy