September 28, 2010 10:13 AM

Hi Andy

Sorry to pester you, but I’m about to buy my first rack of nuts and wondered if I should by Rocks or Wallnuts?

Thanks

Adam

Hi Adam

You can look at nuts in two ways, one is that they are just oblong bits off alloy and they are all much of a muchness, or that they are incredibly sophisticated bits of kit and that each design stands apart from each other.  The truth is somewhere between the two.

90% of the time any rack of wires, be they wallnuts, Rocks or Stoppers, will work perfectly well; you find a sweet spot for a nut, slot it in, yank it to seat, and you’re away.  In some places you may find the nut won’t go were you’d like it to, but even than if you’re prepared to work at it you will probably find it fits.

Were the differences in shape come into play is in that 10% of the time were there is only one placement and only one nut will fit.  This could be a flared pod,  a knobbly crack, or a peg scar, anywhere that requires the perfect shaped nut to fit.  Rocks and Stoppers are pretty boxy and so are perfect for that 90% of placements, and this simple shape has the benefit of allowing them to be cleaned more easily in many situations. Wallnuts will also go in the same placements as the Rocks or Stoppers, but due to their flared and scooped faces they will give you a better chance in when faced with that dastardly 10% of placemnets.  Lastly you probably also have about 5% of placements where the flare is too acute to allow a normal nut to work, and hear having DMM offsets is a help, as you can get a solid placement without having to just go without, or live with something you don’t trust.

So the bottom line is ideally you want a wide selection of nuts and these would like like this:

Beginers rack

1 set of Rocks; easy to place and simple

Intermediate rack

1 set of Rocks
1 set of Wallnuts
1 set of micro alloy wires (dmm or Wild country or BD)

Standard rack

1 set of Rocks
1 set of Wallnuts
3 Dmm alloy Offsets
1 set of micro alloy wires (dmm or Wild country or BD)
1 set of brass micro wires

Some climbers also add extra sizes that are commonly used (say an extra wallnut 7), and some rock types and pitch lengths may lend themselves to carrying a third set of nuts.

 

monkeyboyraw | 09/28/10

A short, sweet and highly useful little article for anyone new to trad climbing who is at the stage where they aren’t to sure if the local shop will just sell them the most expensive gear!

Can’t you get this published elsewhere as well Andy?

zetafiddler | 09/28/10

Probably the clearest and most useful article I’ve seen on this never-ending subject.

Personally, I’d add the Metolius nuts to the list as an alternative 2nd set.  They seem to slot into places where others need more fiddling, and once in they seat brilliantly - possibly too well if you’re seconding the route!

Ted | 09/29/10

I also vote for the Metolius nuts. They fit super in many difficult placements and are very light weight.

Dave | 10/04/10

Does anyone know the reasoning behind Metolius’s decision to remove the swage and directly attach the cable to the nut on their larger sizes? I realise this saves on weight and appears with other manufacturer’s on smaller ranges of nuts but it seems to compromise on the overall strength?

Seems a bit “gimicy” to me?

Isn’t it interesting that both DMM and Wild Country (UK manufacturers) nut protection is rated to 12Kn on a majority of sizes and that Black Diamond and Metolius (US manufacturers) are only rated to 10Kn.

What’s that all about then? Doesn’t the US have more fat people than the UK still? Shouldn’t it be the other way around? If the above sweepingly provocative generalisation has any truth to it?

I’ve always climbed with a mixture of Nuts, Stoppers and Wallnuts anyway so perhaps I’m simply bias?

Looking forward to seeing you in Swansea Andy! I’m sure whatever reaches the final cut of the “show” will be outstanding anyway! Will the kids be on stage with you again this time?

much love!