Technique

A series of articles (short and very long) mostly published in magazines such as High, OTE, Climber and Climb.

Note: If you spot any mistakes, areas that need work (such as missing images), then please email me.

When melting snow always melt a small amount first and make sure the pan is clean otherwise it will burn and you’ll taint it.

On winter routes no matter how easy the climbing always plug in the pro (a pro plugs in pro).

Buy a pertex windproof top. It’s one of the best pieces of clothing you’ll ever buy.

if you suffer from chaffing (caused by too many layers) use glide jell designed for runners.

Practice for winter climbing by getting out on big/wet/slimy rock routes in your big boots.

Attach a 60cm 5mm loop of cord to your sac haul loop, making it easier to clip it off to belays. clip off to bottom of shoulder strap.

Sew an extra layer of fleece into the sleeves of your base layer (us an old fleece jacket). This will keep your hands warmer.

learn how to bounce test (using exstenders clipped to belay loop) and bounce test dodgy belay or rap anchors.

keep a spreadsheet of all your rack, clothing and other gear’s weight. This way you can play around with dif systems.

Practice leading without cams, using just hexs and nuts instead. This will help you protection creativity.

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Andy Kirkpatrick | Alpinist | International Speaker | Best selling author