Archive
These pages contain a selection of articles written for magazines between 1995 and 2005, as well as a selection of climbing related blog posts.
Cragmanship
- Avoiding the Deck
- Holding On
- The Skinny
- Pay Grade
- Over and Under Cam
- Egg Basket
- Keeping it clean
- Swallow the Fear
- Stone Hitch
- physical humility
- Rope Wrangler
- Locking Munter
- Critical Thinking
- Black Dog Insurance
- Sweet Spot
- Shallow Cams
- Flow
- Nut Tool Rules
- Rope Loop Belaying?
- Stepping Stones
- K.I.S.S Belays
- Committed
- Nuts that stay put
- The Rear Gear loop
- How many Quick-draws?
- Snap Gates
Gear
- A Short History of Man Made Fabrics
- Avoiding a Gas Stove Disaster
- Beyond Single Pitch
- Big Nuts
- Boost Sleeping Bags Warmth
- Cam and Get'Em
- Cartridge Versus Liquid Fuel Stoves
- Cold Hands
- Cold Weather Stove Performance
- Cut the Crap - The softshell story
- Double UP
- Feathered Facts
- Getting the right mountain boots
- Gimme Shelter
- High Hot Feet
- How to Build a Cam Rack
- Micro Gas Stoves
- Rock Rack
- Sleep Tight
- Sole Power
- Spooning
- Stick It
- Summer Alpine Bags
- Synethic Sleeping bags
- The Art of not Suffering
- The Belay Jacket
- The Best Softshell in the World
- The Daisy Chain
- The Effect of Altitude on Stoves
- The Killer Alpine Pack
- The Truth About Gloves
- The Wonders of Wool
- Top Down
- Top Nuts
- Ultimate Gnarl Bag
- Waterproof Truths
- Wet Down - how to cope
- Which Locking Karabiner
- Winter comfort tips
- winter Rack
- Wired
- X- Packs
Bivy
- Boost Sleeping Bags Warmth
- Double UP
- Feathered Facts
- Gimme Shelter
- Sleep Tight
- Spooning
- Summer Alpine Bags
- Synethic Sleeping bags
- Top Down
- Ultimate Gnarl Bag
- Wet Down - how to cope
Aid & Big wall
- 10 Tips for Yosemite Valley
- Beaks
- Climbing On Fixed Heads
- Daisy chain Q&A
- Four Thousand Pull Ups
- Gorilla Aid
- Living On The Wall
- Overreacher
- Testing
- The Fifi Hook
- The Haul Line
- Top Stepping
Alpine
Clothing
- A Short History of Man Made Fabrics
- Advanced Bootlace Techniques
- Best Glove system
- Beyond Single Pitch
- Buying Rockboots
- Cold Hands
- Cut the Crap - The softshell story
- Don't Kill Your Rockboots
- Getting the right mountain boots
- High Hot Feet
- Sole Power
- Stick It
- The Art of not Suffering
- The Belay Jacket
- The Best Softshell in the World
- The Truth About Gloves
- The Wonders of Wool
- Waterproof Truths
- Winter comfort tips
- Avoiding the Big Sleep
- Bivi Ledge Techniques
- Bothy or Bivy bag
- Getting Your Stove Past Check In
- Night Time Terrors
- Ode To The Piss Bottle
- Snow Shelters For Climbers
- Tent Bound
- The Bivi Kitchen
Ice
- Choosing a Mountaineering Axe
- Choosing a Technical Axe
- Getting the Right Crampon
- Going Leashless NOT Axeless
- Invisible Crampons
- To Leash or Not to Leash
Descent
- Bad Anchors
- Damaged Ropes
- Descender Control
- Descending down your abseil ropes
- Descent
- Descent Strategy
- descent tools
- Escape
- Heavy Loads
- Ice Anchors
- Makeshift Descenders
- Miscellaneous Descent Gear
- Pulling your rap lines
- Rap Anchors
- Rap Tat
- Ropes
- Snow Anchors
- Stuck Ropes
- The Rappel Sling
- The Ultimate Abseil Knot
- Throwing The Ropes
Kit list
Food
Technique
Rack
- Big Nuts
- Cam and Get'Em
- How to Build a Cam Rack
- Rock Rack
- The Daisy Chain
- Top Nuts
- Which Locking Karabiner
- winter Rack
- Wired
Reviews
- Grivel Double Spring Leash
- Light My Fire Steel
- Mountain Hardware Flex Balaclava
- Patagonia R1 Hoody
- Petzl E+lite
- Petzl-Charlet Sarken Spirlock
- PHD Zeta Belay Jacket
- RHB Vaprtherm Socks
- Sportiva Spantik
Photography
Rope Soloing
Rack & hardware
- Advanced Hex Placements
- An Eye For A Winter Placement
- Best in Cam
- DIY Mixed Hook
- Equalising Slings and Cords
- Get your ice hooks out
- Guide Plate Escaping
- How Many Screwgates?
- Ice Hook Racking
- Ice pro tips
- Increase Your Safety Margin
- Making Do
- Maximising Your Protection
- Racking Your Nuts
- Shifting Stubborn Gear
- Should We Wear Helmets
- Sling Racking
- The Andy Parkin Escape Kit
- The Fifi Hook
- The Snake Cord
- Which nuts to buy
- Winter Climbing Booster
Stoves
- Avoiding a Gas Stove Disaster
- building a hanging stove
- Cartridge Versus Liquid Fuel Stoves
- Cold Weather Stove Performance
- Jet Boil Mods
- Micro Gas Stoves
- The Effect of Altitude on Stoves
Ropework
- Avoiding The Void
- Beyond The Figure Of Eight
- Building The Best Winter Belay
- Is the cordelette dead?
- Making A Cordelette
- Moving Up And Down Fixed Ropes
- Switching ends
- The Body Belay
- The Clove Hitch
- The Munter Hitch (Italian Hitch)
- The Wonderful Alpine Butterfly
- Tying The Perfect Figure Of Eight
- Using Fixed Ropes
Rucksacks
Scotland
Survival
Systems
- Basic Hauling Systems
- Be A Lightweight
- Climbing as a three
- Climbing In Big Boots
- Hauling Your Rucksack
- No More Dropped Axes
- North Wall Kit List (Summer)
- Rucksack Hauling Strategies
- Ten Ways To Speed Up Your Climbing
- The Three Climber System
- The Winter Leaders Pack
- Winter Patagonia Kit List
- Winter Soloing
Winter Climbing tips
- A tap for luck
- Axe Leashes
- Dot to Dot
- Grade Breakthrough
- hooking
- It's all in the feet
- One Mitt sytem
- Sawn off hooks
- The arm test
- Winter Slings
Stories
- Z is for ZZZZZZ
- Y is for Yosemite
- Winter
- Where Have all the Dobbers Gone?
- When XS is Not enough
- When No One Can Hear You Scream
- W is for Why not?
- V is for Visualization
- U is for Unkown Pleasures
- The Alpine Winter Journey
- T is for Training
- R is for Rats
- Q is for Quietus
- Power to Waste
- P is for Parnell
- Our very own Patagonia
- On the Hill
- O is for Others
- N is for North Wall
- Messner-Lagarde
- Mad Man
- M is for maps
- Lafaille
- L is for Left Wall
- K is for knowledge
- J is for Justification
- I is for Intelligence
- Harms Way
- H is for Hull
- gigon
- G is for Garibotti
- Falling Stars
- F is for failure
- E is for E1
- D is for Danger
- Confessions of a gear nerd
- Cold Play
- C is for Rab Carrington
- B is for Bentley
- A is for Aconcagua