Night Time Terrors

With many types of climbing there is an inherent risk of benightment. Most climbers know that sinking feeling as the sun drops and the top suddenly feels twice as far away, the line to it a hundred times more complex.

The right gear can make a huge difference — both to the chances of being benighted and to how you cope if you are. That’s the focus here.

Bivy insurance

The gear you take should reflect the risk of a bivouac, your experience, your fitness and the conditions.

A fit, acclimatised climber on something like the Super Couloir on Mont Blanc du Tacul, in good condition, may climb with little more than crag kit, confident they can top out or retreat in a day. A less acclimatised team, in poorer conditions, who don’t fancy abseiling from pitch 20 of 23, may carry light bivy insurance so they can stay out if needed.

The same applies on big rock routes. Some climb in a thermal and shorts and push on. Others carry a few key items that might swing the balance when darkness comes early.

Bivy insurance isn’t really about planning to bivouac. It’s about knowing you can. That knowledge lets you stay calm and keep moving, rather than running for the ground as soon as the sun dips. Some climbers push on through the night relaxed because they know they can cope. Others may take a short sleep to recharge.

If you do take a climbing catnap, keep it between 15 and 50 minutes. That window gives useful short-term recovery. Two hours can leave you groggy and worse than before. Fifteen minutes every four hours is ideal.

Minimum cover

Head torch

Any climber venturing onto a route with even the slightest chance of benightment should carry a functioning head torch with fresh batteries.

Without one your options shrink fast. You may be unable to descend, unable to find anchors, or forced into a dangerous blind retreat. On long or complex routes, descending without light can be impossible.

A small LED torch is ideal. It can be worn on the wrist, around the neck or clipped to your harness. Lightweight emergency models are best — small enough that there’s no excuse to leave them behind.

Bothy bag / survival shelter

Gram for gram this is one of the best pieces of bivy insurance you can carry. It is far superior to foil blankets or thin survival bags.

If you’ve never used one, try it in bad weather. You’ll be surprised at the warmth. Two well-dressed climbers can sit comfortably, even sleep, in very cold conditions. Condensation is the main issue, so many users turn the bag inside out during the night.

They pack small enough to live in a bum bag or hydration pack. Bright colours are worth choosing — they help morale and make you visible in an emergency.

Sit mat

Insulating yourself from the ground makes a big difference. If you have a rucksack you can use its back padding. Two-person teams sharing one sack should make sure it contains removable foam that can be split.

If climbing without a sack, a small hydration pack with thin folded foam — even 3mm — works well. Bubble wrap will do at a push.

If you have nothing else, sit on the rope. Better still, rope plus mat.

Communication

If you’re late back and people worry, a rescue may be triggered when none is needed. It happens.

A mobile phone can remove that pressure. It also stops you rushing off the route simply because you’re worried about others worrying.

Food and drink

Carry a little spare food. It maintains energy and helps you keep moving when things slow down.

Clothing

You must feel you have enough clothing to climb into the night and sit reasonably still if needed. A cotton T-shirt will feel cold fast, even on a mild night.

Dress so you can move and, if required, sit.

Extra insurance

Flame

On cold climbs, a compact cook set can transform morale. A micro stove, small canister, pan with lid and lighter weigh little but allow hot drinks and food. In a bothy bag, heat makes a huge difference.

It also buys time — and calm.

Sleeping bag

Some winter climbers choose to carry an ultra-light sleeping bag for added comfort and security. If you do, keep it minimal. Lightweight half bags or stripped-down summer bags are ideal.

They must be protected from damp inside a bothy bag, which may mean pairing them with a lightweight bivy sack. Synthetic options are heavier but more forgiving in wet conditions.

Carrying this extra kit shouldn’t slow you down if chosen carefully. In fact, it may allow you to keep moving when time tightens.

Because sometimes the difference between epic and adventure is just a head torch and a thin orange bag.