Testing

If you read the aid climbing books they tell you to test placements by standing in your aiders and bouncing up and down. That works when the gear is good and unlikely to rip. But what if it does?

There’s a fair chance you’ll rip the piece below. Or you won’t bounce hard enough because you’re scared of the fall, and it rips once you’re properly on it. Hard bounce testing is one of the most important skills in serious aid. It reduces the chance of falling at all. And sometimes falling isn’t an option.

This is how I test gear.

I test about 90% of hard placements through my sewn daisies. That way I can pull junk without unclipping from the piece below. The force is controlled and measurable. You feel it through your hips. It builds real confidence.

You need tough, low-stretch Dyneema aiders. Extra long is good. Avoid skinny alpine-style aiders like some made by Wild Country. They’re fine for light alpine use, but heavy bounce testing can blow bar tacks and give you a fright. Adjustable daisies aren’t ideal either. They stretch, cams can bite the webbing, and they freeze on cold walls. If you love adjustables, carry a separate daisy just for testing.

The key is understanding how much force you can generate. If you weigh 80kg and can produce 200kg in a bounce, and the piece holds, you know it’s solid.

A good exercise is to hang from a loop of 2mm perlon. It will hold your body weight. Bounce it and it will snap. That’s roughly A5+ territory. Try the same with 3mm cord. It feels much stronger and will hold body weight easily, but it still only has the stopping power of 3mm cord. Think A4+. Bounce it until you can break it. Harder than you think.

Move up to 4mm. Much stronger again. Around 3–4kN. It may even hold a small fall. It’s difficult to break in a bounce. That’s more like A3.

What does this teach you? Unless you’re dealing with a true time bomb, if you can apply the same force you used to snap that 3mm cord and the placement holds, you know it will hold your weight. When you understand this in your head, you’re moving towards soloing A5.

When to test everything

If the outcome of a fall feels terminal, test everything. Even bomber gear.

A few years ago I tried a winter ascent of the Grand Capucin. I ended up battling up a 6b pitch in plastic boots, half free, half aid. Near the top I had a long stretch of hooking on chicken heads. The only protection was a bolt about 50 feet below. I was scared.

I reached a horizontal crack and placed a cam at full stretch. I was about to commit straight onto it when I paused. What if it rips? My tired brain said just get on with it. My instincts said test it. I gave it one hard bounce. The perfect cam ripped straight out.

Unless you’re speed climbing and willing to accept the risk, test everything. Even if it’s just one big, committed bounce.

When not to bounce – avoiding time bombs

Be careful with copperheads. If you bounce them too aggressively you can slowly pull the wire through the head. It feels tested. Then the wire rips clean out once you’re properly on it.

I give heads a couple of firm bounces and stop there.

The same caution applies to fragile flakes.

The “just” bodyweight test

When hooking, or climbing on very poor gear, use a controlled bodyweight test. Load the placement with your full weight plus a little more. When you’re confident it will hold that, step up carefully. No drama. Just measured force.