blog

An eclectic mix of writing, covering climbing, equipment, technique, life & death, and all the stuff inbetween.


Midnight Run Image

Reflections | Apr 28, 26

Midnight Run

A midnight emergency run across Lough Corrib with a badly burned child—fear, mistakes, and instinct collide in this raw story of risk, parenting, and consequence.
G is for Garibotti Image

Reflections | Apr 15, 26

G is for Garibotti

A quiet evening in Rolando Garibotti’s Boulder kitchen in 2004 reveals the human side of one of Patagonia’s greatest climbers. A personal reflection on talent, illness, humility, and the day climbing regained its wonder.
U is for Unknown Pleasures Image

Reflections | Apr 15, 26

U is for Unknown Pleasures

What do you really get out of climbing? Not just the views. A deeply personal reflection on the small, unexpected rewards of mountaineering — from frost-nipped fingers and cheap tea to coming home changed.
GriGri Unconfidential Image

Climbing | Apr 11, 26

GriGri Unconfidential

A raw, honest confession about repeatedly fucking up with the Petzl GriGri — misthreading, open-device rappels, and the psychology of climber errors. Not a gear review, but a deep look at why we all make mistakes and why honesty matters more than looking competent.
Beyond Help Image

Climbing | Mar 30, 26

Beyond Help

When professional rescue isn’t coming: A gripping account of a near-fatal fall in Kenya and a fatal accident in Kalymnos. Essential reading on self-rescue, expectations vs reality, and staying alive in the mountains.
Psycho Vertical (2017) Image

Climbing | Mar 19, 26

Psycho Vertical (2017)

"Psycho Vertical: a raw climbing film about fear, obsession, and pushing into the vertical unknown, where control slips and consequences bite."
Brotherhood of Rope Image

Reflections | Mar 18, 26

Brotherhood of Rope

Andy Kirkpatrick returns to climbing after a neglected bicep injury, grappling with ego-bruising restarts, chaotic family crag days, and the raw futility of the sport. Reflections on old friends, near-misses, and the heavy shadow of suicide—including the sudden loss of a charismatic climbing mate and a salvific message from a fallen hero—explore pain, connection, and why words can feel like morphine when life unravels. Intimate, humorous, and unflinching.
If Image

Reflections | Mar 11, 26

If

A reflective essay by Andy Kirkpatrick on solitude, excuses, and climbing ambition, sparked by Napoleon Hill’s “Fifty-Seven Famous Alibis” and the endless “if only” mindset that holds climbers—and people—back.
Ice Magic Image

Climbing | Mar 10, 26

Ice Magic

Relive the magic of Nuit Blanche (WI6) through Andy Kirkpatrick's nostalgic reflections on 1990s ice climbing revolution, Stevie Haston's bold first ascent, gear evolution from pre-modern to modern, and personal tales of climbing the iconic Argentière Glacier route with Tim Emmet. Stories beyond the ice.
The Silent Killer Image

Climbing | Mar 07, 26

The Silent Killer

Paul Ramsden's 'The Silent Killer' exposes carbon monoxide risks from cooking in tents at high altitude. Rediscover why many climbing deaths may not be altitude-related—and practical ways to prevent CO poisoning.
Death to Trust Image

Reflections | Mar 06, 26

Death to Trust

“I have a policy of not talking to journalists about dead climbers or climbing ethics—it never ends well.” Andy Kirkpatrick breaks his own rule with a blunt take on trust and tragedy in the mountains.
Lafaille Image

Reflections | Feb 27, 26

Lafaille

A reflective personal essay on the death of legendary French mountaineer Jean-Christophe Lafaille, who disappeared during his solo winter attempt on Makalu in January 2006. Written by a fellow climber who met him once, it explores the risks of extreme alpinism, the illusion of control, and the quiet fears of mountaineering parents—blending raw grief, admiration, and hard-earned perspective.
Tump Line Image

Technique | Feb 18, 26

Tump Line

Discover the tump line: an ancient head strap that makes heavy mountain loads feel 30% lighter. From El Cap hauls to wilderness tips in Andy Kirkpatrick's upcoming follow-up to 1001 Climbing Tips. Practical, eclectic mountain wisdom.
Power to Waste Image

Reflections | Feb 13, 26

Power to Waste

A darkly comic climbing tale of oversleeping, dropped axes, epic inefficiency and Blair Witch paranoia on Longs Peak — a story of wasted effort, stubborn pride and glorious incompetence.
Swag and the Death Ray Image

Technique | Feb 10, 26

Swag and the Death Ray

Pete Kirkpatrick, a veteran of RAF Mountain Rescue, shares timeless insights on serious mountain navigation—from pre-GPS timings and pacing (hitting ~5% accuracy) to clever hacks like the "Pacing Train," "Death Ray" technique, and quick tips for wind, light, and morale. Inspired by his son's pacing beads post, these old-school methods still build confidence and safety in the hills today.
Lottery Lower offs Image

Technique | Feb 06, 26

Lottery Lower offs

How to back-off, or retreat, from bleak protection without (hopefully) dying in the process.
Nick Cave at the Superbowl Image

Reflections | Jan 26, 26

Nick Cave at the Superbowl

A reflection on Alex Honnold’s Taipei 101 ascent, exploring money, morality, fame, and why climbers’ reactions say more about love, integrity, and values than the climb itself.
Death Pact Image

Technique | Jan 26, 26

Death Pact

Unbelayed roped movement, aka 'moving together': methods and methodology
Invitation to an Orgy Image

Reflections | Nov 25, 25

Invitation to an Orgy

How to not, not climb The Nose
Cake Image

Reflections | Nov 20, 25

Cake

When doing something is perhaps worse than nothing
Raising Kids Image

Reflections | Nov 10, 25

Raising Kids

Tom Evans makes me reconsider taking kids up El Cap
Down Punching Image

Reflections | Nov 04, 25

Down Punching

A Trip Report for the Shortest Straw (5.7 A4-)
Beware of the audience Image

Reflections | Oct 29, 25

Beware of the audience

A open letter to Magnus Midtbø
The Kill Pause Image

Reflections | Oct 26, 25

The Kill Pause

Anatomy of a tragedy
Jigsaw Image

Reflections | Sep 17, 25

Jigsaw

Mark Ryle / Lesueur route, Petit Dru N Face 2003
What I’ve Learnt Image

Reflections | Sep 01, 25

What I’ve Learnt

Old words from a dead magazine
Normalisation of Deviance Image

Climbing | Aug 26, 25

Normalisation of Deviance

The Two Rope People Problem
Emotional Binding Image

Reflections | May 30, 25

Emotional Binding

Suffer the children (for their own good)
Buyers Remorse Image

Reflections | May 06, 25

Buyers Remorse

Illusions of grandeur in high tech material solutions.