blog
An eclectic mix of writing, covering climbing, equipment, technique, life & death, and all the stuff inbetween.
Reflections | Jan 21, 25
Stars in their Eyes
Andy Kirkpatrick reflects on his lifelong outsider view of drink, drugs and climbing culture, exploring why he’s always chosen to say “no thanks” and how that mindset has shaped his life.
Reflections | Jun 23, 24
What They Leave
In memory of John Middendorf: a hero who left humility, integrity, and quiet impact—not godhood. Reflections on what true heroes leave behind in climbing and life. Andy Kirkpatrick tribute.
Dark-Half | Sep 09, 23
For Granted
A quiet, personal reflection on grief, emotional distance, and a mother’s enduring love—moving from creative numbness and daily routine to memories of a mother’s death, unsaid words, and the painful realisation of what can’t be reclaimed once it’s gone.
Gear | Jun 24, 23
Mountain Survival kit
Andy Kirkpatrick shares his no-nonsense mountain survival kit: a lightweight, homemade first aid setup for UK and Irish hills. Practical gear that actually gets used.
Dark-Half | Oct 17, 22
“Fuck You”?
Andy Kirkpatrick's thoughtful email response on suicide: no judgment, only empathy for the pain behind it, the "fuck you" to life and loved ones who are robbed of a chance to help, and a call to hold on for those who care—even strangers. Reflections on forgiveness, the taboo of the act, and why one word can sometimes save a life.
Writing | Sep 22, 22
5 Books
Andy Kirkpatrick's five essential mountaineering (and beyond) books: Climbing Big Walls by Jim Bridwell, Alone at Sea by Hannes Lindemann, Extreme Alpinism by Mark Twight, Feeding the Rat and The Savage God by Al Alvarez, and The Damned Utd by David Peace—personal picks that shaped his climbing life and mindset.
Climbing | Sep 22, 22
Sell by Date
Andy Kirkpatrick on Tri-Cams in 2025: still relevant in niche spots (limestone, light racks, tiny placements) despite being overshadowed by modern small cams like Aliens and Totems—old ideas can be cyclical, so check dates on advice and rediscover what works for you.
Dark-Half | Sep 19, 22
The Power of Pain
Andy Kirkpatrick on pain as the ultimate teacher: from aikido beatings and toddler face-plants to hypothermia bivvies and near-miss falls. Why direct experience of hurt sharpens focus, builds mastery, and often saves lives—far more effectively than words or warnings alone.
Technique | Sep 19, 22
Pacing Beads - A 3,000 word study
Andy Kirkpatrick on pacing beads: a low-tech, reliable tool for accurate distance measurement in whiteouts or featureless terrain—why they beat timing, how to make/use them (4–13 counters, cord options, directional shapes), and why small details like these can save lives in the mountains.
Dark-Half | Sep 19, 22
People on a Mountain
A reflection on creative writing, fatherhood and climbing Diamond Hill in Ireland—about carrying a child up a mountain, chance conversations, and how small encounters can linger long after the walk is over.
Dark-Half | Sep 19, 22
Reclamation
How outdoor institutions destroy themselves
Dark-Half | Sep 07, 22
Cody Bradford
A reflection on how small and interconnected the climbing community really is, and how the suicide of climber Cody Bradford hits differently—less like an accident of risk, more like a rupture in the tribe—reminding us to value and thank the ordinary people who quietly shape the culture before it’s too late.
Reflections | Sep 05, 22
On Books
Andy Kirkpatrick shares blunt, practical advice on writing a book—from structure and first drafts to editing, publishing, and making money—based on hard-earned experience rather than magical thinking.
Technique | Dec 09, 21
Top Rope Solo with Petzl Shunt CAN Kill You
The Scorpion Catch
Technique | Nov 04, 21
Snow Melting Nazi
Snow melting on stoves: fuel efficiency, BTU trap explained, and tiered recommendations for summit, mountain, and basecamp use. Essential reading for winter expeditions and alpine climbing.
Gear | Oct 17, 21
The Race Vest, a pre-history
The surprising history of the race vest: from 3300 BC pouches and WWII commandos to the 1985 Ultimate Direction Arctica. Andy Kirkpatrick explores how today’s running and hydration vests came to be.
Technique | Sep 06, 21
Sticking Plaster
From compound fractures to spinal injuries: honest reflections on wilderness first aid, red pill myths, and essential mountain rescue gear every climber should carry.
Clothing | Aug 25, 21
The T-Shirt
Andy Kirkpatrick traces the surprising history of the humble t-shirt — from 1868 union suits and WWII military issue to Hollywood rebellion and modern outdoor wear. Where does this iconic cotton staple sit in performance climbing and adventure clothing? A practical, no-nonsense look at its strengths, flaws, and clever layering hacks.
Q&A | Aug 12, 21
Gully Learning
A response to a climber’s near miss in wet, waterfall conditions, exploring lessons learned about rappel technique, Prusik back-ups, and managing risk in slimy gullies—plus a discussion on the controversial use of backups in waterfalls and the fine line between safety and new hazards.
Gear | Jul 04, 21
VBL Hack
Vapour barrier layers (VBLs) are well known in socks but rarely understood elsewhere. This article explains how VBLs work and explores their use in gloves and clothing—showing how strategic moisture control can preserve insulation, improve warmth, and increase survivability in extreme cold and stop-start alpine conditions.
Climbing | Jun 02, 21
Crawl, Walk, Run
A climbing parable about apprenticeship, ego and legend status — exploring the long road to mastery, and the rare few who claim they never needed directions.
Technique | May 24, 21
Pulks Tracers
A detailed guide to hauling pulks on expeditions, covering packing strategy, tracer systems, shock absorption, connectors, rigid vs rope systems, and how to build a simple, reliable set-up for glacier and polar travel.
Climbing | May 20, 21
Oh Shit Award #8
A reflection on “Oh Shit” moments in climbing and beyond—how distraction, ego, and dulled fear lead to near misses—told through a Peak District abseil accident that ended in a rope-burn scar and a hard lesson on backups, focus, and respecting the rules written in blood.
Climbing | May 19, 21
Get-home-itis
An exploration of “get-home-itis” in climbing—how stress, fear, fatigue, and external pressure lead to risky decisions on ascent and descent, and why slowing down is often the safest way home.
Climbing | May 07, 21
Oh Shit Award #7
A near-fatal trad climbing fall highlights the importance of placing protection on easy ground, managing ego, and treating “scrambling” terrain with respect.
Technique | May 04, 21
Now Get Out of That #2
Working through climbing problems
Dark-Half | May 01, 21
Dom
A brief Antarctic encounter with actor Dominic West at Novo station, and a quietly embarrassing moment of misplaced admiration in the tea queue.
Gear | Apr 30, 21
Tinkerers
A chance encounter with Dominic West in an Antarctic tea queue becomes an awkward, funny reflection on fame, heroes, and what it really means to be starstruck.
Gear | Apr 30, 21
Bang
A practical tip for boosting comfort in the mountains: why your base layer matters more than your shell, and how carrying a second layer can transform cold, wet days on approach-heavy climbs.
Gear | Apr 30, 21
Leg Warmers
Leg warmers may look like an ’80s joke, but they’re a practical and versatile insulation layer for cold-weather rock and alpine climbing, offering warmth, adjustability, and boot sealing without the bulk of full thermals.