08 March 2009
Writing Books - what I wished I’d known
A few days ago I got an email from a guy writing a book and looking for advice, and being a new author I thought I’d blog about the things I wished I’d know from the start. So here are a list of random thoughts - hopefully they may help any authors out there. On writing Writing is not a talent - it’s a skill, and can be learnt by practice and reading the writing of others. Try and create your own style of writing. For me I always...
28 February 2009
Opinion: Staying Safe
Maybe it’s living with someone was was paralyzed in a climbing accident, reading the emails sent to her by climbers who have also recently been injured, or maybe it’s listening to stories of near missis, close calls, and one or two stories of those that didn’t make it, but over the last few months I’ve been thinking about the consequences...
22 February 2009
Gear: Best Glove system?
There is a great deal of gear that’s crucial when it comes to alpine and winter climbing, in fact due to it’s nature - you only carry what is absolutely essential - you could say that it’s all crucial. But when it comes down to technical climbing there isn’t anything that makes or breaks a route than hand-wear. There are reams of...
09 January 2009
Opinion: Signature Product
I was looking for a machete this week for Patagonia as I’d heard there’s quite a bit of bushwacking, finding places to camp as you kayak down the coast. Then Ben Saunders emailed me this link to the signature Bear Grylls knife from Bayley Knifes. Now everyone from Ray Mears to Lofty Wiseman has these signature products these days, so I got...
07 January 2009
Opinion: The Bad taste
Back at home and feeling the cold more than most I think (got the usual sore fingertips). Last night a freind emailed me a link to Mark Reeves Blog, were he talked about the Eiger trip, which has led to some interesting thoughts and emails. here's what Mark wrote:- Just before Christmas Andy Kirkpatrick set off on to solo the Harlin Route on the...
06 January 2009
Opinion: Down on the Eiger
Back on flat the flat again, and I think it’s time to do some explaining, both about the Eiger attempt and how I set about doing it (blog, filming etc), as it’s kicked up quite a lot of interest on various websites - primarily on UKC. First off lets get one thing clear - I don’t consider rope soloing the Eiger direct any big thing beyond...
04 January 2009
Opinion: Dead reconing
At the start of the hard climbing. Due to the deep snow and too much kit I'm totally spent. Got three emails from my son Ewen asking where I am and another from Karen hoping I'm safe. I think a phone a bad idea. As is having people who love you if your going to try stupid shit like this. Starting this morning I put my solo belay device upside down....
03 January 2009
Opinion: F##king f##ked
Climbed 250 metres today. Boring/scary snow then 2 pitches of undrytoolable rock and thin 80 deg ice. Hauling my bag took a lot out of me and wasted a lot of time. Finished in the dark below the gallery windows, using every trick in the book to build an achor. Hope tomorrow's a bit easier. [Posted with iBlogger from my iPhone]
02 January 2009
Opinion: Harlin
Day ended better than it started. Hardly slept becouse of the avalaunches (a part of my brain didn't believe I was safe). Meant to start early, but hung on till 12 just in case any slopes went. One did. Started up jugging my fixed rope and hauling my haul bag as I went. Bloody hard work and I can see why ulie steck made such a big deal about...
01 January 2009
Opinion: Bad start to the new year
What a night!It had been snowing lighly since midday yesterday, then at about 9pm the avalaunches started. You could hear them coming from a long way off, sounding like a liquid train. They were funneling down either side of my bivy and I was congratulating myself on sitting myself up below an overhang. That was until I hot hit by one at around...
31 December 2008
Opinion: Eiger limestone
Had a terrible night - probably due to being knackered. Kept waking up with a song in my head (common stress tick). And the usual wanting to piss (now my cups broken I dont have a pot to piss in. Worst off all the anchor i'd secured the bivy tent to kept ripping - plus I has the Zip of stones coming down all night (it does seem very warm).Snow was...
31 December 2008
Opinion: below the Harlin
Finally bivied below the first pitch of the harlin (eiger direct). Feel tottaly bolloxed after a real slog of an approach with 70kg of gear (did it in relays, breaking the load into 3 for the 200 metres up to the first real climbing). The face looks amazing and from the bottom you can see right up to the exit cracks on the 38 route. Not been a very...
30 December 2008
Opinion: Eiger dreams
So here I am at the eiger at last and it looks just as scary/amazing as last time. Only now I've got a haul bag full of currage and anough food for 10+ nights on the wall. Carried in what felt like a 100kg sack close to the base and hopefully will get underway in the morning. I sort of can't wait![Posted with iBlogger from my iPhone]
21 October 2008
Technique : 4000 Pull Ups
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