blog
An eclectic mix of writing, covering climbing, equipment, technique, life & death, and all the stuff inbetween.
Gear | Apr 30, 21
Door
A practical look at expedition snow-hole living, from a custom-sewn lightweight door system to improvised ski crampons and surviving -20°C temperatures inside the shelter.
Technique | Apr 30, 21
Dry
Practical advice on what to wear — and not wear — inside a sleeping bag, covering moisture management, drying systems, and preserving precious nighttime warmth in cold environments.
Climbing | Apr 27, 21
Oh Shit Award #6
The value of training (and back-up ropes).
Technique | Apr 26, 21
Now Get Out of That #1
Working through climbing problems
Climbing | Apr 25, 21
Do you remember your first time?
Advice on your first expedition
Technique | Apr 21, 21
Rations
Practical thoughts on expedition food, long-term nutrition, simple meals, and why what you pack at home is what you’ll be stuck with in the wild.
Climbing | Apr 19, 21
Oh Shit Award #5
A unique bit of frostbite
Gear | Apr 17, 21
Good Ugly
A reflection on sewing your own kit, simplicity in design, and the tension between function and fashion in modern outdoor clothing.
Gear | Apr 16, 21
Gladius Rudis
A reflection on stoicism in climbing and clothing: train with heavier tools and harsher systems so that real performance feels lighter, freer, and earned.
Climbing | Apr 16, 21
Anything at All
Espen Fadnes on Ulvetanna West Ridge first ascent: the fun reality of hard new routes vs. the dark myth. The mental journey from dream to commitment—why reasons against vanish once you jump. Andy Kirkpatrick reflection.
Gear | Apr 15, 21
Bottom
A sharp look at how participation numbers shape innovation in outdoor sports — from prisons and skiing to climbing, alpinism and caving — and why market size drives gear development.
Gear | Apr 15, 21
Note Book
Admin matters. This piece explains why carrying a simple waterproof notebook and pencil on climbs and expeditions is essential—for logistics, emergency details, planning, and problem-solving when things get serious.
Gear | Apr 14, 21
Expedition Mat Cover
A step-by-step guide to sewing a lightweight insulated sleeping mat cover—protecting your air mat, adding winter redundancy, and creating a versatile expedition-ready bedroll using simple materials and a domestic sewing machine.
Climbing | Apr 13, 21
Back-up
Patagonia winter lessons: safe descents, rappel protocols, backup anchors, and why a quiet photo of process (not action) captures what matters most in climbing—investing in the glue that keeps you alive. Andy Kirkpatrick reflection.
Technique | Apr 13, 21
Wee Bottles for Women
Why being able to pee inside your sleeping bag in extreme cold isn’t a luxury but a survival skill — plus practical tips for women on high mountain trips.
Climbing | Apr 12, 21
Stopper Knots
Expert guide to stopper knots for safe rappelling: causes of rope-end accidents, best knots (barrel, triple barrel, directional figure-8, Oysterman’s), alternatives like clove-hitching ends, and when to skip them.
Gear | Apr 12, 21
Dead Air Space
A reflection on extreme cold climbing in Alaska’s Ruth Gorge, near-disaster on overhanging “snice,” and why moisture management—not insulation alone—is the key to survival in sub -30°C conditions.
Climbing | Apr 12, 21
A Character
Immigration twist: mistaken for Simon Pegg at the border, the dread of officials, why never joke with them, and how looking dodgy turns “I’m a writer” into a hard sell. Andy Kirkpatrick anecdote.
Climb Tips | Apr 11, 21
Tech Tip #21.5
Practical advice on booking flights through sites like Skyscanner—how to avoid hidden baggage fees, excess charges, complex multi-airline ticket traps, and why booking directly with airlines can save money and stress.
Climb Tips | Apr 11, 21
Tech Tip #27
A simple car camping food hack—freeze stacked one-pot meals like curry or biryani to create a tiffin-style block that stays cold all weekend with minimal hassle.
Technique | Apr 11, 21
Hitch Cord, VT or Open Prusik
A clear guide to hitch cords in climbing, explaining their construction, advantages over standard Prusik loops, and how to tie Autoblock and VT (Valdotain Tresse) knots.
Gear | Apr 11, 21
Ovals
A look back at why racking wires on oval carabiners makes sense, from ’90s scepticism to modern adoption—plus a breakdown of colour-coded systems using the DMM PerfectO for faster, cleaner gear selection.
Climbing | Apr 11, 21
Suffer
A short reflection on cold, resilience, and the difference between disliking discomfort and learning how to master it.
Dark-Half | Apr 11, 21
Street Children
A reflection on parenting and risk, arguing that resilience grows when children are trusted with real responsibility.
Dark-Half | Apr 11, 21
EA312
A reflection on creative integrity, resisting safe career paths, and choosing honesty over playing the game — even when it would be easier to conform.
Dark-Half | Apr 10, 21
Queen
A reflection on gender politics, rebellion and ideology, using the image of a woman carrying a heavy pack to question slogans and focus instead on effort, biology and lived reality.
Climbing | Apr 10, 21
Oh Shit Award #4
A hard look at the risks of rope soloing, why back-up knots are your real belay, and a near-fatal GriGri failure that proves why you must always tie in—no matter how safe your device seems.
Q&A | Apr 09, 21
Q&A: 7.5 mm rope question
An in-depth look at seconding on a single 7.5mm rope, covering fall risk, stretch, traverses, redundancy, and when to use half, twin, or double ropes for safer alpine climbing.
Technique | Apr 08, 21
The Abseil Knot Part 2
Part two of the abseil knot guide from Down, covering inline bends like the Fisherman’s, Alpine Butterfly and Zeppelin, plus a clear warning about the deadly offset Figure-Eight in rappel systems.
Q&A | Apr 07, 21
Self Lining Question
Practical thoughts on top-rope soloing: dynamic vs static ropes, toothed cams, icy lines, escaping the system, and why back-up knots and bombproof anchors matter more than brand-approved methods.