blog
An eclectic mix of writing, covering climbing, equipment, technique, life & death, and all the stuff inbetween.
Reflections | Mar 08, 09
Writing Books - what I wished I’d known
Practical advice for new authors on writing, book proposals, publishing, agents and the realities of producing a first book, from experience in climbing literature.
Dark-Half | Mar 03, 09
Training Days
Reflections on training, motivation and mental toughness, linking lessons from elite sport and Paralympic ambition to the demands of alpinism.
Dark-Half | Feb 28, 09
Staying Safe
A reflection on influence and risk in climbing, arguing that the real benchmark is not epic survival stories, but the quiet mastery of staying alive.
Gear | Feb 22, 09
Best Glove system
A detailed look at winter climbing handwear, outlining a three-part glove and mitt system designed to deliver warmth, dexterity, and efficiency from bottom to top—reducing glove changes and keeping hands functional in cold alpine conditions.
Gear | Feb 17, 09
The best Axe in the World?
A no-nonsense guide to choosing the best all-around ice axe for Scottish winter climbing and steeper trips abroad, with recommendations for beginner tools and a personal take on why the Petzl Nomic set the benchmark for modern performance.
Dark-Half | Jan 09, 09
Signature Product
Andy Kirkpatrick introduces the AK WII system, a limited edition Nalgene signature piss bottle designed for tough expedition use in Patagonia and beyond.
Dark-Half | Jan 07, 09
The Bad taste
A reflection on criticism, ego, and responsibility after an attempted Eiger solo, exploring media, risk, the Dru controversy, and why open debate is essential to British climbing culture.
Dark-Half | Jan 06, 09
Down on the Eiger
An honest reflection on attempting a rope-solo of the Eiger Direct: the heavy safety margin, hauling 70kg in poor conditions, blogging from the face, family impact, criticism, failure, stubbornness, and why daring greatly still matters more than success.
Dark-Half | Jan 03, 09
F##king f##ked
A short update from a committing alpine push: slow progress on mixed ground, draining hauls, improvised anchors in the dark below the Gallery, and hopes for easier climbing tomorrow.
Dark-Half | Jan 02, 09
Harlin
A winter solo update from the Eiger, reflecting on avalanches, hauling, fatigue, and bivouacking beneath the Harlin route.
Dark-Half | Jan 01, 09
Bad start to the new year
Rough night on the face: avalanches, spindrift invasion, sleepless panic, high pulse, and waiting for the face to shed snow before heading back up. Andy Kirkpatrick update from the bivy.
Dark-Half | Dec 31, 08
Eiger limestone
A short alpine climbing diary entry describing a cold, restless bivouac, sparse protection on limestone, and preparing for incoming snow.
Dark-Half | Dec 31, 08
below the Harlin
Bivvy below the Harlin Direct on the Eiger: heavy approach slog, gear mishaps, broken mug and overflowing Jetboil, but the face looks epic—ready for the Gallery Windows tomorrow. Andy Kirkpatrick update.
Dark-Half | Dec 30, 08
Eiger dreams
A short alpine diary entry from the base of the Eiger, describing anticipation, heavy loads, and the start of a long wall attempt.
Dark-Half | Dec 18, 08
Radio Day
Reflections on appearing on BBC Radio 4’s Midweek and the World Service’s Outlook — nerves, foolish remarks, and finding a voice under pressure.
Dark-Half | Nov 17, 08
Secrets
A short reflection on secret solo climbing plans, the fear of saying them out loud, and preparing a talk for Kendal Mountain Festival.
Dark-Half | Nov 01, 08
The cupboard
A childhood memory of being locked in a cupboard, reflections on a brother in the RAF, and news that Psychovertical has been shortlisted at Banff.
Technique | Oct 21, 08
4000 Pull Ups
Karen Darke’s journey to climbing El Capitan as a paraplegic climber, detailing adaptive big-wall systems, rope techniques, specialist equipment, and the mindset needed to turn impossibility into achievement.
Writing | Oct 14, 08
Ukclimbing interview
Andy Kirkpatrick talks about writing PsychoVertical—why he wrote it, how it was structured around his solo of Reticent Wall, the challenge of crafting 95,000 words, and what drives him to climb.