Self Lining Question
Disclaimer. Unfortunately, we’re living in an age in which any advice I give is going to result in me being told off by manufactures and those more qualified and badged to tell you what to do, as well as slandered on...
Thanks for the question.
At first glance, there looks like a big difference in performance between the simple twelve-point mountaineering crampon, and the technical models; but really there isn’t. Yes,...
Little Anita Needs to Fly
I probably get two messages a day from someone who wants to do the climb, or trip, of their lives; to climb a big wall, to pack in a job they hate and go somewhere wild, dreams big and small, some doable, some less so....
Wow, that’s a loaded question (no pun intended). Many people will have strong opinions on knee pain; something they struggle with every day; restricting what they can do; stopping them from doing what they love....
A Hunk of Cold Metal
Hi This is probably my number one question, so I’ll try and answer it in a way that’ll hopefully make sense to others:
WAS THE SILENT PARTNER THE BEST SOLOING DEVICE?
Is the Silent Partner better?...
Thanks for the question!
Harness selection can be a little over-complex at times, with buyers getting bogged down in details that aren’t really that important in the real world, but ignoring - or being unaware -...
I think I’m the last man on the planet to be giving relationship advice (I’m better at stoves and bird beaks), but here goes:
My dad, a wise man, when asked a question like yours, would...
The Crapness Ceiling
Thanks for the email, and although I can hear James Mchaffie Twitter as I type this (questioning how I’d know anything about E1s), I’ll try to respond.
Before I bang out some ideas, I need to own up to...
I’m guessing we’re talking about general climbing here, and some aiding and big wall climbing, which makes things a little easier.
Having used just about every lanyard on the market just...
Oh God, this is one of those subjects you get on forums that make my head bleed, where people begin to go on about camming angles and coefficients of friction, all of which have no bearing on leg-breaking reality (if you...
The Idea not the Gear
The term ‘softshell’ has been so abused over the years that it’s just about meaningless, with a Walmart denim Wrangler jacket being as ‘softshell’ as a North Face ‘softshell’, in that when...
What cams to buy?
There is such a huge choice when it comes to cams it can be pretty bewildering these days! A good start when sorting through what to buy is to consider the following points:
1. Strength: How good...
Clove Hitch Issue
Sorry for the late reply!
I’m not a big fan of clove hitches in any situation where they can take very high forces as they have little capacity to absorb any shock at all, plus they can bind in...
Goggles are tricky but if you stick to a few simple rules they can work pretty well, but they take work. Here’s a list of random thoughts.
Buy good quality goggles that fit your face and fit under a...
People often ask me why I used to solo so much, Alex Huber (no mean soloist himself), even going so far to suggest it was some form of self-sabotage (two solo attempts on the Harlin must mean I don’t want...
First off consider how much more experienced you are partners are now, all those routes climbed and epics lived through, how experience and age give you a steady and clear foresight to climbings dangers....
Staying dry when wet
The original softshell idea was modelled on what the Inuits wore for centuries, being a sort of synthetic animal skin, the pile being the fur that holds the warmth both wet and dry, and the outer shell or...
The Water Margin
When it comes to climbing big walls one of the killers is water. Take too much and the weight can crush your climb, take too little and thirst will crush you!
The issue of how much to take...