
Gear
Mountain Pullovers
Andy on lightweight hardshell pullovers for alpine climbing — why smocks make sense, durability trade-offs, and why the best niche gear rarely stays on the market long.
By Andy Kirkpatrick
May 16, 2012
Reading Time:01 minutes.
Hi Andy,
I am a big fan of your articles, they have certainly helped me make wiser choices regarding kit. I was recently looking for a new waterproof/breatheable jacket (light is right!) and i found the new Mountain Hardwear Quasar pullover. Do you think that the grams shaved by sacrificing a full zipper are worth it, i mostly do summer alpine routes.
cheers
J
Hi J
I’ve never been a huge fan of hardshells. It’s usually the very last thing I put on. Most of the time I’m in a Pertex or microfibre layer — either over a fleece, or built into a pile top. But there are moments when you need a shell. When it’s really wet. When you’re digging snow holes. When you’re static and the weather turns properly grim.
So if you’re only wearing it in those moments, what’s the point of hauling a heavy, full-on shell around all day?
A lightweight shell makes sense. The obvious downside is durability. Yes, it’ll get damaged more easily. But if you’re wearing a proper soft shell underneath and only pulling it on in a deluge, it shouldn’t see that much abuse. And if it does get a hole, a dab of Seam Grip sorts it. A few scars don’t matter if the system underneath is sound.
As for zips — I’ve used plenty of half-zip pullovers and really like them. For climbing, your shell should be tucked into your harness anyway. Less bulk around the waist is better. Full zips mostly exist because the biggest buyers of “mountain” shells aren’t actually climbers.
I had a Patagonia Spectre Pullover years ago and it was ideal for alpine climbing — until a bear shredded it. That’s another story.
Venting with a pullover is no worse once you’re tucked into a harness or under rucksack straps. In fact, the slightly baggier cut many smocks have can improve convection cooling.
Mountain Hardwear’s pullover range came off the back of Ueli Steck’s design feedback, and it shows. It’s climbing-specific. Which also means it’s commercially marginal. When brands make genuinely niche climbing kit, it often survives on marketing budget rather than sales volume. When I worked at Berghaus I used to argue for exactly that — make the proper tool, even if it’s not mass market.
When you see a genuinely good smock, buy it. They rarely last long in the range. The Montane Spectre Smock is another good example of something very right and very niche.
So yes — get one. Before someone in a boardroom realises there aren’t many customers built like Ueli.
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