What do you do?
One very handy technique - and one I’m not sure if it’s sporting - but then neither are two broken legs - is to give your good axe a little hammer with your other tool, knocking it in that extra bit, and giving you the confidence it won’t rip.
I’ve used this on a lot of climbs, and works really well for out of sight placements (remember using this on the crux of Mitre ridge a long time ago; just placed my axe, give a few taps, and pulled up).
Of course the trick is NOT to hammered it to buggery, as you will make that move, only to come short as you find your axe is welded to the spot. Be careful using this technique in cracks; the type of placement where you see hooks fixed.
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Andrew Kirkpatrick is a British mountaineer, author, motivational speaker and monologist. He is best known as a big wall climber, having scaled Yosemite's El Capitan 30+ times, including five solo ascents, and two one day ascents, as well as climbing in Patagonia, Africa, Alaska, Antarctica and the Alps.Follow @ Instagram