Getting the right mountain boots

The first pair of proper mountain boots I ever bought turned out to be a disaster, in fact, almost terminally. Like many people who are just getting into climbing, I didn't have a clue what I wanted when I walked into the local climbing shop that afternoon and, unfortunately for me, neither did the staff.

I'd borrowed 100 quid off my grandad to buy some boots so that I could go up to Scotland with some people I hardly knew, a trip I could only make if I had something suitable to wear on my feet. I'd read that a good pair of boots should cost a week's wages but seeing as I didn't have a job and was still at school I thought £100 would cover it – knowing it would have to because that's all I could borrow.

The shop was quiet that afternoon, in fact, it was always quiet which no doubt explains why it's no longer there. The manager asked me what I wanted the boots for and what size I was. I said "Winter climbing" and "size 10" even though it turned out later that I was actually an eight and so without measuring my feet he produced a whopping green box that contained a pair of size 12 Scarpa Mantas.

Not knowing what I was looking for, and only used to wearing trainers, I just stuck them on my feet and said: "They'll do", paid my money and off I walked down the street.

It was only years later that I realize that the boots he brought out were probably the only boots he had in stock which were remotely stiff enough for winter and even then they were, at that time (I'm talking very old style Mantas here), barely suitable for four-season walking and that's why he'd pulled them out when, in fact, he should have told me to find a shop that sold the right boots.

A day later I was in Scotland, replete in my fancy new boots, it was raining, of course. My first mistake was that I was unaware that gaiters were a good idea and so within a few minutes my fancy new boots began to fill with water.

The second problem was that they were just far too big, in fact, my feet just rattled around inside them and the wetter they got the bigger they seemed to grow. Another problem was because they were so big, they creased across my toes which, of course, were several inches back from the toe box.

All these things became apparent within the first hour.

Leaving the waterlogged track we headed up on to a steep traverse over heather-clad hills, rivers pouring down every few feet. It was there that I began to feel very anxious in my boots, as they were very unstable due to my feet rolling inside them.

This meant they couldn't hold their edges well when contouring causing me to repeatedly slip every few minutes. Also, by now my feet had begun to rub badly, with hot spots turning to blisters, the process no doubt sped along by my waterlogged skin.

Finally, we arrived at a snow-covered ridge, up which we scrambled towards the summit, which I was glad to reach soon after, thankful that there was no real climbing involved.

Standing there in the pissing rain, feet close to full-on trench foot, I felt no elation, just sad about wasting a lot of money because not only did I have a pair of boots that were totally unsuitable that I couldn't take back, I also now had to find the money to buy a pair that would be suitable.

Little was I to know that very soon I'd have more to worry about.

Spending only enough time to eat a soggy Marathon bar on the top, we turned and started making our way back down the ridge, big drops unseen on the way up suddenly coming out of the clag on either side.

At one point a patch of snow led down and around a steep section of rock and so the climbers in front just turned and started kicking steps down it and so, being the novice, I did the same.

Within a few steps I was suddenly aware that my boots were providing almost no bite in the steep waterlogged snow and looking down I could see why.

Unlike my partners, whose boots seemed to hold them rigidly to even the tiniest edge, mine looked like clown shoes… except no one was laughing.

Before I could think about how much danger I was in, exposed high on this ridge, my toes turned to 12 o'clock and I was off.

Luckily I'd done my homework and was prepared for this situation, all I had to do was a self-arrest with my borrowed ice-axe, something I'm sure would have worked even though I'd only seen it in books, that is if my axe wasn't still firmly strapped to my rucksack.

Like anyone would do in the same situation I improvised and used my fingers, clinging to the slush with every ounce of my being, sliding past the guy in front as I hurtled down.

Suddenly, below, I saw a tiny rock sticking out of the slope. I knew if I could catch it with my foot it might just stop me.

That was, as long as my boot didn't just come off or it proves to be a sheep dropping.

Holding my breath, I managed to hit it with my heel and digging my fingers in, managed to stick it.

Luckily I hadn't screamed.

"Did you mean to do that?" asked the guy I'd just bobsleighed past.

"Oh, oh y-yes," I said, carefully removing my rucksack so I could get my axe out to cut some steps. "I always come down like that, it's much faster you know."

Big boots - the most important piece of gear you'll ever buy

Like it says above, boots are the most important item of gear you'll ever buy, because they do more work, get more hammer and provide more security than any other piece of gear you use.

And unlike anything else, they must fit perfectly, otherwise, you'll be in a world of pain.

Buying boots is easy, it's just buying the right boots that's hard. This article aims to put anyone in the market for a new pair of boots on the right (or left) foot.

The big boot purchasers' checklist

So you've decided you need some big boots, perhaps because you're planning on hitting Scotland this winter, or maybe going to the Alps, or you fancy upping your walking to some tough trekking or winter walking.

You've wondered if the boots you've got will do, but you've decided, perhaps after reading about my intro to winter boots, that you should invest in some proper footwear.

If you're one of these people, or perhaps someone who already has big boots but may feel they need to be replaced, then here's a checklist so that, unlike me, you should get the correct boots.

Money's no object

First of all, even before you start thumbing through the mail-order catalogues, trawling the shops and surfing the web, make sure you have the money to spend in the first place.

This may sound like an odd thing to say, but I've seen a lot of people who go into a shop intent on buying boots when they don't have enough money to do so.

Unless I, or someone who had a conscience (there are some) was serving them, what would inevitably happen was they would leave with the boots that most closely matched what they wanted that could be purchased with the money they had.

The problem is that you will spend 70% of the cash you'd need to buy the correct boot on a boot that is only going to be good for 30% of what you want it to do and, worse still, may kill you in the process.

You should have at least £180 to spend and be prepared to spend up to £250 if your feet don't happen to fit £180 boots or if you want something more specialized like a plastic boot.

You can spend up to £500 so count your blessings if it's only £200 you're spending.

The reason boots are so expensive is, unlike almost all outdoor gear these days which is getting cheaper by the season, winter boots are primarily made in Italy, where a Euro doesn't go as far as a Yen.

These boots are also made out of the best materials, the thickest leathers or space-age fabrics like Kevlar or laminates, and have the most advanced sole units.

In fact, many of the boots on the market should be far more expensive than they actually are, but often the boot companies will keep the price below a certain ceiling as they are the flagships of the brand.

What if you can't scrape enough cash to buy the right boots? Well again don't just buy what you can afford.

Check out the end of lines, old styles and models in shops. See if you can find a pair of second-hand boots, either on notices in climbing walls and shops, on climbing chat forums, even eBay.

Due to the fact that a lot of people buy boots like I first did (i.e. they get it wrong) there are a lot of boots that can't be worn.

You can easily find quality boots for well under £100, sometimes almost brand new.

When buying second-hand leather boots make sure the leather's still supple and hasn't dried out by being stored in a warm place for too long.

Plastic boots shouldn't be too old and I'd stay away from any old Koflach boots (usually grey models) as they have a tendency to crack through ageing.

Mountain slippers

One piece of footwear that works very well when using big boots is the ultra-lightweight running shoe.

These can be worn on approaches or on descents in order to give your feet more comfort, dexterity and speed, then simply stashed in your sack once you get to the point where you need your boots.

This may sound like a mad idea but I've been using this technique for years and I don't know why more people don't do it.

For example, this winter I wore my trainers on the walk up to the CIC Hut several times, even when snowy and wet, and simply changed over at the hut into my boots.

The best trainers for this job are the lightweight fellrunning models, as they are tough, light and feature very good traction.

Although you'd imagine them as being ideal, most approach shoes aren't good at this type of job, as they are more often than not too heavy.

One model that looks to me to be the perfect Alpine shoe is the Nike Mayfly, which at only £30 has to be close to disposable.