Super Alpine Climbing

Eight years ago I opened a copy of High magazine and read an article by Dick Turnbull on Alpine winter gear. Like all great gear articles, and there are some, it went beyond the usual banal list of what to take and instead explored a philosophy of equipment, Alpine climbing, and how to maximise both performance and enjoyment. Those words pushed me to head to the Alps a few weeks later and, crucially, to get my gear right first time. That meant climbing more safely and laid a solid foundation for every Alpine trip that followed. Hopefully this article will do the same for anyone interested, as I once was, in climbing and exploring the Alps and beyond in their harshest seasons.

WHY ALPINE WINTER?

The Alps in winter offer the mountaineer a perfect training ground for developing ‘super Alpine’ skills, skills that transfer directly to more remote and hostile mountain ranges. You learn to operate in extreme cold, climbing in big boots and thick clothing, often near your limit, while carrying a heavy rucksack. You learn to move efficiently through mountains buried under metres of snow, discovering the value of skis and snowshoes.

You also become self-reliant. You learn to look after yourself in severe cold and exposure, to stay warm and motivated, and to adapt constantly to conditions and weather. On top of this you learn how to survive long Alpine nights, often in open bivvies, managing your sleeping system, cooking, and extracting what little comfort there is to be had. This art of suffering is invaluable once you move beyond the Alps, and it’s no coincidence that so many great European climbers served their apprenticeship in winter.

THE GEAR

Alpine winter climbing falls into three broad categories: valley ice cragging, single-day routes, and multi-day routes at mid to high altitude. This article focuses on multi-day routes, as these are the most rewarding and the most relevant if you plan to go further afield. Single-day routes require much the same kit, minus bivouac equipment. Valley ice cragging should be treated much like Scottish winter climbing, unless you’re doing ‘nu-mixed’, in which case Lycra and a vest may be compulsory.

HEADWEAR

Your helmet should be light, comfortable, and able to fit over multiple layers, as you may wear it for 24 hours a day over several days. Many climbers use lightweight polystyrene helmets, which are comfortable and light but can be destroyed by a heavy impact. While such an impact usually ends the climb anyway, a broken helmet can leave you exposed to further danger.

Traditional rigid helmets are heavier but more durable. Modern carbon fibre helmets offer an excellent compromise, combining low weight with high strength, and have become popular for serious Alpinism. Choice depends on route character and commitment, though weight savings often win out. Whatever you choose, tape over ventilation holes to stop snow filling the helmet, and stash a good pair of goggles inside.

Winter days are short, so a powerful headtorch is essential. Cold drains batteries quickly, making arctic-style systems with battery packs worn inside clothing the best option. These are lighter on the head and allow you to sleep with the torch still on your helmet. Mini LED torches are fine as backups but lack the power needed for route finding. Headgear should also include a thick balaclava and a neck gaiter. Layering different balaclavas can offer excellent protection in severe weather.

HANDWEAR

After your feet, your hands are your next priority. Lose the use of your hands and your ability to look after yourself rapidly declines. Plan first for the worst-case scenario: retreating in arctic conditions. For this you need heavily insulated mitts. Modern synthetic-filled mitts offer excellent warmth and wet performance at low weight. Everyone in the team should carry at least one pair.

For climbing, mitts can often be used in combination with bare hands for placing gear, giving better dexterity and warmth overall than bulky gloves. Shelled gloves take a hammering on Alpine mixed routes, so if you use them, choose robust models. Beyond this, carry several pairs of fleece gloves for approach, cooking and general use.

FOOTWEAR

Footwear choice is critical. You must plan for delays, storms, and unplanned bivvies. Leather boots can work, but in prolonged cold or inactivity they can lead to frostbite. For many climbers, expedition or standard plastic boots offer a better safety margin, especially if circulation is poor.

Fit is more important than insulation. Cramped feet will always be cold. Use thin liner socks and thick winter socks over the top, favouring materials that stay warm when damp and dry quickly. Always carry a dry pair for night use. Avoid sleeping in damp inner boots if possible, as this can lead to dangerously cold feet the next day.

CLOTHING SYSTEM

A classic layering system works well: base, insulation, and shell. Modern materials, however, allow far more efficient systems. The key is staying warm without overheating and retaining protection when damp.

COMFORT LAYER

A shelled microfleece worn next to the skin forms the foundation. It wicks moisture, limits convection, and provides excellent warmth for its weight. Models with hoods are especially effective. For trousers, full side zips are invaluable for ventilation and toilet stops.

PERFORMANCE LAYER

This is your main insulating and protective layer while moving. Shelled pile systems excel here, offering breathability, flexibility and warmth when wet. Fit should be close but not restrictive. Tough shells are essential for durability.

STORM LAYER

A lightweight storm layer adds security in severe conditions. Often this is more about confidence than pure insulation. A simple helmet-compatible shell jacket is usually sufficient for Alpine routes.

HEAT LAYER

When static for long periods you may need an extra insulating layer. Avoid overly bulky jackets. A hooded jacket with moderate fill and a water-resistant shell provides the best balance. Synthetic options are heavier but retain warmth when wet and can double as storm protection.

BIVVY SYSTEM

Winter nights are long and cold. Sleeping bag choice depends on route length, altitude and how warm you sleep. Conservative insulation pays off as bags inevitably lose loft with damp and fatigue. Pair a modern water-resistant shell sleeping bag with a breathable bivvy bag for best results.

A bothy bag is invaluable and can be life-saving. Carry simple extras that improve comfort and safety, such as a flexible urine bottle and a small brush to clear ice from clothing. These details matter over multiple nights.

RUCKSACK

Your rucksack must carry sleeping gear, stove, fuel, food and spare clothing while remaining compact and unobtrusive when climbing. Around 45–50 litres with some lid extension is ideal. It must be light, robust and climb-friendly, with external attachment options for mats and tools.

HARDWARE

Take what you would normally use in the UK, with a few Alpine additions. Dry-treated ropes, sharp tools and crampons, spare picks, and the means to maintain them are all essential. Losing a tool high on a route may make a good story, but it often ends partnerships.

OTHER BITS AND BOBS

SKI POLES

Essential for saving energy in deep snow. Wrap tape around the shafts for grip and carry some reflective tape for marking gear.

SNOWSHOES OR SKIS

Skis with skins are the most efficient option for non-technical approaches, even if you can’t really ski. They save huge amounts of energy compared to snowshoes.

WATCH

A loud alarm is essential. If you’re waking up in daylight, you’re already behind.